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Storage

Storing Things Without Buying Furniture

Five ways to use volume that already exists inside a wardrobe, a shelf or a cupboard, before adding another piece of furniture to a room with no space for it.

By Antoni DaskalskiPublished 5 min read

Before you buy anythingThis page also considers Taking a shelf out and moving it and a second-hand chest of drawers. Why, and when each is the better answer.

Contents

Storage advice usually ends at "buy more storage", which assumes a free wall. In a home where every wall is already occupied, the useful question is a different one: where is there volume inside the furniture you already own that nothing is currently using?

There is usually a lot of it. A single-rail wardrobe wastes most of its lower half. A cupboard shelf set at tin height wastes everything above the tins. The space under a sink is shaped by the trap and the waste pipe, so nothing rectangular fits it and most of it stays empty.

The five items below all do the same job: they subdivide space that already exists. None adds a footprint to a room, none needs a wall fixing, and each is chosen on the specific dead space it recovers rather than on how much it holds.

A note on this collection: these are assessed from published dimensions and from the way each kind of dead space forms, not from living with them — every one depends on measurements of your furniture rather than of the product. See how we test.

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A second wardrobe rail

The largest waste in the house, and the least visible, because a wardrobe looks full when the rail is full.

A double rail hangs from the existing one and puts a second tier of shirts, skirts and folded trousers in the empty metre underneath. It is the only item here that roughly doubles a capacity rather than tidying one, and it is defeated by exactly one thing: full-length coats, which need the height it takes.

Wardrobe double rail

Measure the clear drop under your hanging clothes first, and check the upper rail's diameter — the hooks are sized for a round rail and many fitted wardrobes use an oval one.

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The longer version of this, including where the height goes, is in getting more out of one wardrobe.

Slim hangers

The narrow answer to a narrow problem, and worth being clear about which problem.

Bulky wooden and moulded plastic hangers each occupy a couple of centimetres of rail before anything hangs on them, and across a full wardrobe that adds up to a noticeable share of the rail. Slim velvet-covered hangers reclaim it, and the flocking stops wide-necked tops sliding off, which is the smaller reason people keep them.

Slim velvet hangers

Only worth it if you are short of rail length rather than wardrobe volume. Change the whole rail at once — a mix of thick and thin hangers hangs unevenly and gains little.

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Shelf dividers

A tall shelf gap is not generous, it is unstable: stacks of folded clothes lean, and once they lean nobody puts anything back on them.

Dividers turn one wide shelf into three or four vertical bays, which lets a stack stand at its full height without falling into its neighbour. They are also the cheapest fix on this page and the one most likely to still be doing its job in five years, because there is nothing in them to break.

Shelf dividers

Check the shelf thickness the clamp will take, and whether the shelf has a lip at the front. Wire shelving needs a different type entirely.

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Keeping the bays legible once they are in use is labelling storage you will keep using.

An under-sink organiser

The cupboard under a sink is the most awkwardly shaped storage in the house and the most consistently half empty, because the trap and the waste pipe run straight through the middle of it.

An organiser built for that space is either U-shaped or split into two towers that stand either side of the pipe, so the height beside and above the trap becomes shelf rather than air. It is the one item here that fits by being the wrong shape on purpose.

Under sink organiser

Measure the pipe position from the back wall and from the left-hand side before ordering. The adjustable sort exists because no two under-sink cupboards share a layout.

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Damp is the other thing that happens in these cupboards, and it is worth ruling out before filling one — see storing things in a damp cupboard.

Clear stackable boxes

Stacking is how you use the height above a shelf. Being able to see in is how you avoid unstacking the whole column to find one thing.

Clear boxes are the version of that trade for storage you cannot reach easily — the top of a wardrobe, the back of a deep cupboard, the loft hatch. Where the box sits out in the room and has to look like furniture, an opaque one with a label is the better answer, which is a genuinely different decision.

Clear stackable storage boxes

Check that the lids interlock with the base of the box above. Boxes that merely sit on each other slide, and a sliding stack is one nobody stacks twice.

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Which container suits which shelf is set out in fabric cubes vs plastic baskets.

What was left out

Vacuum bags. They halve the volume of soft, seasonal bulk and do nothing for anything else, which makes them a specific tool rather than a general storage fix. What they do and do not save is in vacuum bags: what they do and do not save.

Storage ottomans. Genuinely useful, but they are furniture — they add a footprint, and they are chosen on how they look and sit as much as on what they hold, which is a different decision from every item above. See storage ottomans and what they really hold.

Over-door and under-bed storage. Both use the room rather than the furniture, so they sit in the space a small flat already has instead. The trade against fixing something to a wall is in over-door organiser vs wall hooks.

Anything that needs drilling. Every item here works in a rented flat where nothing permanent can be fixed, which is the constraint that rules out most storage advice.

If this is not right for you

Taking a shelf out and moving it
Most flat-pack furniture has more peg holes than shelves. Moving one shelf up costs nothing and often recovers more usable height than any product here.
A second-hand chest of drawers
If the room genuinely has a free wall, this is the honest answer and it holds more than everything below combined. The list assumes it does not.

Questions people actually ask

How much space is actually wasted under a hanging rail?
In a standard single-rail wardrobe, usually between 600 and 900 mm of clear floor under everything except full-length coats — roughly a third of the internal height doing nothing. That is the largest single pocket of dead space in most homes, and the only one that can be recovered without moving anything else.
Do slim hangers really gain useful space?
They gain rail length rather than volume, which is the constraint only if the rail is what ran out first. A wardrobe short of rail gets a real gain; one short of shelf or floor space gains nothing, and swapping every hanger for no reason is an expensive way to tidy.
Are clear boxes worth the extra over opaque ones?
Where the box goes somewhere you cannot easily reach, yes — the cost of opaque storage is not the lid, it is the ten minutes spent opening four boxes. Where it sits out in the room and has to look like furniture, an opaque box with a label is the better trade.
What should be measured before buying any of this?
Internal height, internal depth, and the clear width between whatever obstructs each side. Listings quote external dimensions, and cupboards are obstructed by hinges, pipes and the frame itself, so the number that decides fit is almost never the one printed on the box.

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