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Small Space

Laundry With Nowhere to Dry It

Drying clothes indoors puts litres of water into a flat with nowhere to send it. What shortens drying time, and what just moves the damp somewhere worse.

By Antoni DaskalskiPublished Updated 3 min read
Contents

Drying a load indoors releases litres of water into your flat. Everything else on this page follows from that. The clothes dry when that water leaves the room, so the problem is ventilation and extraction — not warmth.

A heated airer in a sealed room dries the clothes and wets the walls. The same airer with a window open, or with a dehumidifier running, dries the clothes and removes the water.

A note on this guide: this rests on how evaporation and humidity behave in a closed room and on manufacturers' stated extraction figures, not on loads dried and weighed here. See how we test.

The problem, as it appears

A flat with no outside space, no room for a tumble dryer, and a washing machine that produces more laundry than the flat can absorb.

The airer goes up in the living room or the bedroom, the clothes take two days, everything smells faintly of damp, and by February there is black mould in the corner of an external wall behind the wardrobe.

Why the obvious fix disappoints

The obvious fix is more heat — turn the radiator up, drape things over it, close the door to keep the warmth in.

It disappoints because warm air that is already saturated dries nothing. Evaporation stops when the air cannot hold more moisture, and a closed warm room reaches that point quickly.

Worse, the moisture does not stay in the air. It condenses on the coldest surface available, which in a flat is an external wall or a window reveal — usually behind furniture, where it is discovered late and is not covered by anyone's idea of fair wear.

The bathroom seems like the obvious room and is usually the worst one: already humid, cold-surfaced, and dependent on an extractor that in most rented flats does not run long enough to matter.

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What actually matters

1. Getting the water out of the clothes before they go up

An extra spin cycle removes water mechanically that would otherwise have to be evaporated. It costs a few pence and it is the highest-value change on this page.

2. Getting the water out of the room

Either it leaves through a window, or something removes it. Those are the options. A closed room with an airer in it is a room where the water goes into the plaster.

3. Getting the floor back

In a small flat the airer occupies the living space for two days per load, which is the cost people actually feel. Anything that folds flat or shortens the drying time is buying back the room.

The options, and who each suits

A wall-mounted rack that folds flat

The space answer. Up for the load, flat against the wall afterwards. It needs fixings into something solid, so it is for owners or for tenants with permission.

Wall-mounted folding drying rack

Wet laundry weighs considerably more than the empty rack suggests — fix into something structural, not into plasterboard alone.

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A dehumidifier

The one that addresses the actual problem. It removes the water rather than relocating it, and for the same electricity it generally dries faster than a heater because it attacks the limiting factor.

It also solves the damp-corner problem you were about to have.

Compact dehumidifier

Look at the stated extraction per day and the noise figure. In a one-room flat the noise is what decides whether it actually gets used.

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A heated airer

For speed, and best used with the door closed and a dehumidifier running — the two together turn two days into an evening.

Alone in a sealed room, it accelerates the process of putting water into your walls.

Heated clothes airer

Pair it with ventilation or a dehumidifier. On its own in a closed room it makes the clothes dry faster and the room damper.

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Moisture traps

For a wardrobe, a cupboard or a caravan they are genuinely useful. Against a wet load of washing they are not the right order of magnitude, and buying them for that job is the most common misunderstanding here.

Moisture absorber tub

For enclosed spaces — a wardrobe, a cupboard, under a sink. Not a substitute for extraction when there is a load of wet washing in the room.

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The mistake to avoid

Closing the door and turning the heating up. It is the intuitive move and it converts a drying problem into a mould problem, on a timescale slow enough that the two are never connected.

The tell is condensation on the inside of the windows in the morning. If that is happening while laundry is drying, the water is not leaving — it is being deposited, and the wall behind the wardrobe is getting the share you cannot see.

The related failure, in cupboards rather than rooms, is in storing things in a damp cupboard. And if the flat is cold enough that you are reluctant to open a window at all, that is worth fixing first — draught-proofing a rented flat covers where the cold is actually coming from.

Questions people actually ask

How much water does a load of washing put into a room?
Litres, not millilitres — a washing machine leaves a substantial fraction of the load's weight in water, and all of it ends up in the air of whatever room the airer is in. That is the whole problem, and it is why drying indoors is a ventilation question rather than a heat question.
Does a dehumidifier dry clothes faster than a heater?
Generally yes, for the same electricity, because drying is limited by how much moisture the air can still absorb rather than by temperature. Warm saturated air dries nothing. A dehumidifier also removes the water instead of relocating it.
Is a heated airer worth it?
For speed, noticeably, and it is at its best in a closed room with a dehumidifier or an open window — the two together dry a load in hours. A heated airer alone in a sealed room dries the clothes and wets the walls.
Why does the bathroom seem like the obvious room and turn out badly?
It is already the most humid room in the flat and usually the coldest surface-wise, so the moisture condenses rather than leaving. Unless the extractor genuinely works and runs long enough, it is the worst choice rather than the natural one.
Do those crystal moisture traps do anything?
For a cupboard, a wardrobe or a caravan, yes. Against a load of wet washing they are not in the same order of magnitude — a tub absorbs a small amount over weeks and a wash puts litres into the room in an afternoon.
What is the cheapest thing that genuinely helps?
An extra spin cycle before the clothes come out. Water removed mechanically never has to be evaporated, and it costs a few pence and a few minutes rather than hours of drying.

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