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Cleaning

Getting the Smell Out of a Washing Machine

The smell is biofilm, and it is being fed by cold washes and too much detergent. What removes it, and the habit that stops it coming back in a month.

By Antoni DaskalskiPublished Updated 3 min read
Contents

The smell is biofilm, and it is being fed. Cold washes never get hot enough to kill it or to dissolve the fats holding it together, and over-dosed detergent leaves a residue for it to grow on.

So it comes in two parts: remove what is there, then stop feeding it. Do only the first and the smell is back within a couple of months, which is why people conclude machine cleaners do not work.

A note on this guide: this rests on how biofilm forms in the wet, cool parts of a washing machine and on manufacturers' stated maintenance-wash guidance, not on machines tested here. See how we test.

The problem, as it appears

Clean laundry that smells faintly of a damp cloth, sometimes only once it is dry, sometimes only on towels. A dark rim inside the rubber door seal. A detergent drawer with something growing under the lid.

Everything looks clean and everything smells wrong.

Why the obvious fix disappoints

The obvious fix is a machine cleaner, run once. It disappoints because it addresses the deposit and not the conditions.

Biofilm grows where three things coincide: moisture that never dries, a temperature that never gets high, and a food source. A modern machine used the modern way supplies all three — the door is closed after every wash, the washes are at thirty degrees or lower, and detergent is dosed by the cap rather than by the load.

Run a cleaner and the machine improves. Change nothing else and it regrows in exactly the same places, because those places are still wet, still cool and still being fed.

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What actually matters

1. A genuinely hot maintenance wash

The highest temperature the machine offers, empty, with a cleaner. This is the step that reaches the outer drum and the sump — parts you cannot see or wipe, and where a significant share of the smell lives.

2. The parts you can reach, by hand

The cleaner does not do these:

  • The door seal. Fold the rubber back and wipe inside the lip. This is where the visible black growth is.
  • The detergent drawer. It comes out on almost every machine. Wash it in hot water and clean the cavity it sits in, which is usually worse than the drawer.
  • The filter, behind a hatch at the bottom of most front-loaders. Put a tray and a towel down first — there is more water behind it than the hatch suggests.

3. The habits that stop it returning

Two changes, both free:

  • Leave the door and the drawer open between washes so everything dries.
  • Dose detergent for the load and your water hardness, not to the top of the cap. Excess detergent is the food source.

A hot wash every month or two maintains the result.

The options, and who each suits

A machine cleaner, hot and empty

The first pass, and the one that reaches where you cannot.

Washing machine cleaner

Run empty at the highest temperature the machine offers. A cleaner at thirty degrees is not doing the job the cleaner is for.

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Citric acid, if you are in a hard water area

Scale on the heating element is a separate problem that makes the machine less able to reach temperature — which makes the biofilm problem worse. In hard water areas the two run together.

Citric acid descaler

A separate job from the smell, and related: a scaled element struggles to reach the temperature that kills what is causing the smell.

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An enzyme cleaner, for what came out smelling

For towels and sportswear that hold odour after the machine is clean. Enzymes break down the residues that ordinary detergent leaves behind, and they need a long soak rather than a spray and a wipe.

Enzyme odour remover

For fabric that still smells once the machine is clean. Enzymes need time in contact — a soak, not a spray and a rinse.

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A cloth for the seal and drawer

Unglamorous and necessary. Nothing you pour into the drum reaches the underside of the door seal.

Microfibre cloth pack

For the door seal, the drawer and its cavity. These are the parts no cleaning cycle reaches, and they are where the visible growth is.

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The mistake to avoid

Running a cleaner and changing nothing else. The smell goes, everyone is satisfied, and it returns in six weeks — at which point the conclusion drawn is that the product was ineffective, when the machine simply went back to the conditions that grew it.

The second mistake is more detergent, which is the instinctive response to laundry that smells and is the opposite of the fix. Excess detergent is the food source, and dosing up feeds the thing making the smell.

If clothes are also being dried indoors, that is a second source of damp working against you — laundry with nowhere to dry it covers where that water actually goes.

Questions people actually ask

What is the smell actually coming from?
Biofilm — a layer of bacteria, mould, detergent residue and body oils growing in the parts of the machine that stay wet and never get hot. The door seal, the detergent drawer, the sump and the outer drum are where it lives, and none of them are reached by a normal cold wash.
Why did this start when I switched to cold washes?
Because low temperatures do not kill what is growing and do not dissolve the fats in the detergent and in soiled clothing. Cold washing is better for clothes and for energy, and it needs one hot maintenance wash periodically to compensate.
Am I using too much detergent?
Very likely. Excess detergent does not rinse away — it stays as a residue that feeds the biofilm and holds soil against the drum. Dosing for the actual load and water hardness rather than filling the cap is one of the two changes that fix this permanently.
Does leaving the door open really help?
Yes, and it is free. The biofilm needs standing moisture. A machine left closed after a wash stays damp for hours; left open, the drum and seal dry and the growth slows dramatically.
What about the filter?
Behind a small hatch at the bottom on most front-loaders, and it is one of the more unpleasant discoveries in a house. Put a shallow tray and a towel down first — there is more water in there than the size of the hatch suggests.
Will a service wash on its own fix it?
It removes what is there. Whether it stays gone depends on whether the conditions changed — if the machine goes straight back to cold washes, over-dosed detergent and a closed door, the smell returns within a month or two.
Does fabric softener contribute?
It is a common contributor. It is designed to deposit a coating, some of that coating stays in the machine, and it is exactly the kind of residue biofilm grows on. Machines with a persistent smell often improve when it is dropped.

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